Free Waves and Seashells Boot Cuff Pattern

My computer crashed last week and I still haven’t gotten it back yet, but thanks to my wonderful sister-in-law I have use of a loaner. I had to reconstruct this boot cuff and rewrite the pattern because all my information was on the other computer. It has certainly been a task but finally got it completed!

I worked this project using two different types of yarn. I enjoy using I Love this Yarn because it is soft and comes together nicely but wanted to try something new. I love the Cascade yarn too because it gives the cuff an even softer feel (because it is cotton) and is much thinner in comparison to the acrylic yarn. I like this because some of my boots have a snug fit and the cotton is a better fit.

I Love this Yarn Cuff

This the is cuff made from I Love this Yarn.

Waves and Seashell Boot Cuff Pattern 005_edited-1 Waves and Seashell Boot Cuff Pattern 006_edited-1This is the cuff made from the 100% Cascade Yarn.

Here is the free pattern:

Supplies:

  1. I used I LoveThis Yarn medium (4) worsted weight.  The color I used was ivory.
  2. Crochet Hook Size – H
  3. Tapestry needle for weaving in the ends.

Gauge:  8 stitches and 3 Rows  = approximately 2 inches.

Supplies:

  1. Cascade Ultra Pima – 100% pima cotton.  The color I used was cream.
  2. Crochet Hook Size – G
  3. Tapestry needle for weaving in the ends.

Gauge:  8 stitches and 4 rows = approximately 2 inches.

I was pleased with the width of the cuff, but did need to increase the number of rows worked in comparison to the acrylic cuff to fit my calf.

Special Directions:  sctog, fpdc, bpdc

sctog – Sc in next st, draw through only one loop (2 loops left on the hook), sc in next st and draw through remaining 3 loops.

fpdc – YO, insert hook from front to back around the post of next st, YO and pull up a loop and complete as a dc.

bpdc – YO, insert hook from back to front around the post of next st, YO and pull up a loop and complete as a dc.

Abbreviations:

ch – chain

st – stitches

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

sl st – slip stitch

YO – yarn over

sctog – single crochet 2 together (see special instructions)

fpdc – front post double crochet (see special instructions)

bpdc – back post double crochet (see special instructions)

Top Portion of Boot Cuff

Ch 15

Row 1:  dc in third ch from hook and in next 3 ch, skip 2 chains, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next ch, skip 2 chains, dc in next 4 ch, ch 3 turn.  (13 st) (ch3 counts as first dc here and throughout)

Row 2:  bpdc in next 3 dc, skip next 2 dc, (2dc, ch1, 2 dc)  in ch 1 space, bpdc in next 3 dc, dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 turn. (13 st)

Row 3:  fpdc in next 3 dc, skip next 2 dc, (2dc, ch1, 2 dc)  in ch 1 space, fpdc in next 3 dc, dc in top of ch 3, ch 3 turn. (13 st)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until the desired measurement ending with row 3.  Fasten off leaving a long tail.

Turn pattern wrong side out and join ends together using the long tail and take the side just fastened off using the tapestry needle to sew through both loops of the stitch and the bottom loop of each stitch on the first row.  Fasten off and weave in the ends.  Turn pattern right side in before working the bottom part of the cuff.

Bottom Portion of Boot Cuff

Row 1:  Join to cuff by ch 1 and sc evenly around, sl st into first sc (not the ch 1).  (Hint)  You will later be decreasing stitches so be sure that your stitches will divide by 4 evenly then add two more sc.  (Example:  Sc 44 stitches plus 2=46 stitches around.)  46 will actually be a good number to use on the average size cuff.

Row 2:  ch 2, dc in next dc and around,  Sl st in top of ch 2 st.

Row 3:  ch 1 and sc in same sp, sc in next st and around, sl st in first sc.

Row 4:  ch 2, dc in next dc and around,  Sl st in top of ch 2 st.

Row 5:  ch 1 and sc in same sp, sc in next st and around, sl st in first sc.

Row 6:  ch 2, dc in next dc and around,  Sl st in top of ch 2 st.

Row 7:  ch 1 and sc in same space, sc in next 3 dc, *sctog in next sc, sc in next 3 dc, sctog in next dc*, repeat from * to * across, sl st in first sc.

Row 8:  ch 2 and hdc in next stitch and around, sl stitch in top of ch 2 st.

Row 9:  ch 1 and sc in same sp, sc in next stitch and around, sl stitch in first sc.  Fasten off and weave in ends.

Add buttons if desired.

Please feel free to make or sell products from this pattern!  I believe in free enterprise but just ask to link back to my site.  Please do not copy this pattern as your own.  Please do not re-publish photos as your own.  You can also follow me on my ELK Studio Facebook page for updates of upcoming pattern releases!

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35 thoughts on “Free Waves and Seashells Boot Cuff Pattern

  1. I have crocheted one boot cuff so far and I am also not achieving the zig zag look on the top of the cuff that yours has and also getting the curling of the edges as some others have posted? Unsure what I could do differently to get the zig zag affect?

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    • Tiffany,

      I am beginning to believe this is due to me being left-handed and the way I crochet.

      Under normal circumstances, I crochet “backwards” meaning back to front. However, when I crochet fpdc and bpdc I crochet from front to back.

      When I wrote this pattern over a year ago, I didn’t think my way of crocheting and being left-handed would affect the pattern.

      I will update the pattern later this evening to give this as a possibility of not achieving the same results.

      Thanks.

      Kathy

      Like

    • Chandra,

      I didn’t set a standard size for these cuffs as everyone’s body shape can be different. It’s so different from making a hat where everyone at different age groups relatively have a similar size.

      I can try to find a standard measurement chart for you but I can’t be sure. In the meantime, maybe you could get someone to secretly measure around her boot and take away a couple of inches. 🙂

      Kathy

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  2. I do NOT get the same “look” as yours, with the fpdc’s on right side & bpdc’s on the wrong side. Your fpdc’s & bpdc’s produce a zig-zagging (uphill, & downhill result, which I “wanted”, but can NOT obtain! Mine go “straight” up (“across” when turned to the left to wrap around the leg.) AND, mine ARE curling (at the sides, before adding the bottom, like another person said their’s were doing also. I can send pictures showing this. I’ve been crocheting since I was 7, so 56 yrs. I’m also a licensed, certified knit & crochet instructor through the craft yarn council, write my own patterns, & have won awards, so I don’t know “why” my work doesn’t look like yours. Please help.

    Like

    • Tammy,

      I’m sorry you are not getting your desired results. I picked up some yarn and started the pattern and after 10 or so rows was able to get the same results in my original photo.

      I looked on Ravelry to see if anyone else has worked up the pattern. There were a few projects in there that looked similar to mine.

      As far as the curling, maybe ensuring the ch 3 isn’t “too tight” on the turn or you could even add a row of sc to the top to make it more sturdy.

      You can send me pics, and I will certainly try to help you. My email is elkstudiocrochet@gmail.com.

      Kathy

      Like

  3. Im lost at this part..Turn pattern wrong side out and join ends together using the long tail and take the side just fastened off using the tapestry needle to sew through both loops of the stitch and the bottom loop of each stitch on the first row. Fasten off and weave in the ends. Turn pattern right side in before working the bottom part of the cuff. I get the beginning on joining the ends, its the rest I dont understand.

    Like

    • It’s like taking a shirt and turning it inside out. You have a right side to the pattern and a wrong side. When you sew your ends together, make sure the “wrong side” is out, so that when you sew it together, you can turn it back to the “right” side and your seam will be nice and neat and then finish with the lower portion of the cuff.

      With the ends of the cuff together, insert the needle into both loops of the row just completed and then into the bottom portion of the first row of the cuff.

      If you still are having problem, let me know.

      Kathy

      Like

  4. How wonderful you are!! I make some sort of homemade “fashion” item for about 10 girls/ladies each year…..and this year it will be these. I was inspired by my neighbor who’s dad 🙂 made her a pair. But they were just a little plain for my my taste. So very excited about this pattern. Going to make a red Christmas pair for myself to wear to the theater on Saturday to see ‘A Christmas Carol’. If all goes well, this will be my official gift this year 🙂 You are so wonderful to share this with such a giving heart. Thank you!!!!

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  5. Thank you for posting these for free. I am making sets for the teen girls for christmas! I’m using a slightly thicker yarn, and an H hook because I wanted them more “full”. I like the way they look, but the top and bottom seem to curl. Could that be because of my larger hook/yarn or does the top and bottom sections curl for everyone?

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  6. Pingback: Boot Cuff–Crochet Pattern | windsorknits

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